Showing posts with label Aztec. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Aztec. Show all posts

Friday, October 29, 2021

Drought & Exploitation Threaten the Flow of Two Major Rivers - 2013

 


Canyonlands by Night & Day, along the Colorado River at Moab, Utah - Click for larger image (http://jamesmcgillis.com)

From Las Cruces, New Mexico to Moab, Utah, Drought & Exploitation Threaten the Flow of Two Major Rivers

On May 20, 2013, I visited Canyonlands by Night & Day, along the Colorado River at Moab, Utah. Although the Colorado spread from bank to bank, I would not have guessed that as I watched, the river crested. Only afterwards did I hear from a local resident that the river had crested that day in Moab. Although the drying environment in the High Southwest is obvious, for a while that day I believed that the river was still rising.

The new U.S. Hwy. 191 River Bridge at Moab, Utah - Click for larger image (http://jamesmcgillis.com)When I arrived at the dock, the evening river tours were still hours away. On that lazy afternoon down by the river, I found the place almost deserted. As I roamed the promenade above the river, no other humans appeared. As I looked down, I could see water rushing past the dock. The water was swift, turbulent and cold. Anyone falling into that torrent would have quickly drowned.

Looking upstream at the U.S. Hwy. 191 Colorado River Bridge, I could see high water marks well above the observed water level. After studying stream flow data from the Cisco Water Resources Station, operated upstream by the U.S. Geological Survey, I uncovered the story. Only two years prior, the Colorado River crested in Cisco, Utah on June 9, 2011. That day, the discharge was at almost 50,000 cfs, with a gauge height of over sixteen feet.

Only towers and cables remain from the old Dewey Bridge, near Cisco, Utah. along the Colorado River - Click for larger image (http://jamesmcgillis.com)It was on that day that the Colorado River flooded the lower reaches of the Moab UMTRA Superfund site. The flood destroyed a new riverside bicycle path and lapped at the edges of the toxic, nuclear waste dump commonly known as the Moab Pile. Despite a documented paleo-flood history of far greater floods, the wizards of the UMTRA cleanup world had elected not to protect the nuclear waste dump from increased river flow.

At Cisco, on the afternoon of May 20, 2013 the Colorado River temperature hit a mean low point of about 58 f degrees. Discharge, (measured in cubic feet per second) peaked at 12,500 cfs on the prior afternoon. The flow rate held at around 12,000 cfs on May 20, and then fell steadily to 6900 cfs by May 24.

2008 photo of the old U.S. Hwy. 191 Bridge over the Colorado River at Moab, Utah - Click for larger image (htp://jamesmcgillis.com)Perusing the excellent database available at the USGS website, I was able to select data from any recent timeframe. Over the 94-year history of the Cisco gauge, I found that the Colorado River averaged 20,000 cfs throughout the May 19 – May 25 period. Several days after my 2013 visit, the discharge rate at Cisco stood at only thirty-five percent of average. With Moab being downstream from Cisco, we can extrapolate a one-day delay for all Moab statistics. Thus, as I watched, the river crested in Moab on the afternoon of May 20.

Almost one year prior, the river crested on May 25, 2012 at just over 4000 cfs. Between the two years, average flow at the crest of the spring flood in Moab was less than twenty-eight percent of the ninety-four year average. During my October 6, 2012 excursion on the Canyonlands by Night and Day
Reconstructed Kiva at Aztec National Monument shows usage of roof-support beams - Click for larger image (http://jamesmcgillis.com)Dine & Unwind dinner tour, a river depth of eighteen inches prevented our boat from traveling more than a mile upstream. Near the riverbanks, the air smelled of rotting plants and other undesirable effects of low water. On that tour, the discharge rate of the river at Moab stood at forty-two percent of the long-term average.

The main water sources for the Upper Colorado River Basin are myriad mountain streams and the small rivers that they feed. As we know from archeological evidence, by 1000 CE the Colorado Plateau had entered into a protracted and severe drought. By 1300 CE, not one human remained alive within the confines of the Colorado Plateau. The devastation brought by drought, overpopulation and internecine warfare had driven everyone from that former land of plenty.

Erosion at the Moab UMTRA Superfund site threatens to send runoff into the Colorado River at Moab, Utah - Click for larger image (http://jamesmcgillis.com)Although there was no single event that caused the Great (Anasazi) Disappearance, misuse of natural resources played a major role. With their penchant for building grand, wood-beamed kivas and multifamily dwellings, Pre-Puebloan cultures within the Colorado Plateau denuded huge swathes of the land. Eroded wastelands created by their handiwork are still visible on satellite photos of the area. The Chaco River in Chaco Canyon is a perfect example. Major parts of the Chaco River watershed are parched and rutted.

It was only five years ago that I first heard dire, scientific predictions of prolonged drought in the Four Corner States of Utah, Colorado, New Mexico and Arizona. Today, Western U.S. drought maps show unprecedented environmental distress prevailing in parts of New Mexico, Texas, Oklahoma, Kansas and Colorado. Somewhere between the headwaters of the Rio Grande River in Northeastern New Mexico and the panhandles of Texas and Oklahoma is the vortexual center of the Great Western Drought.

Desert dwelling heifer and yearling fatten up during a good year in the desert - Click for larger image (http://jamesmcgillis.com)Not coincidentally, that area has seen the longest-standing overgrazing of cattle anywhere in the U.S. What once were rolling grasslands now support only scrub and mesquite. Facing starvation of their bedraggled herds, ranchers are now removing cattle from those public lands. As drought destroys all but the heartiest plant life, scientists tell us that the grasslands are unlikely to recover.

A recent article in the Los Angeles Times chronicled the devastating effects of drought throughout the Rio Grande Valley. While New Mexico’s venerable Elephant Butte Reservoir stands at only three percent of its 1980’s levels, the State of Texas is suing New Mexico for pumping too much of its own groundwater.

Dewatering pumps run constantly at the Moab UMTRA Superfund Site better known as the Moab Pile - Click for larger image (http://jamesmcgillis.com)Whether legal or not, the extensive pumping of groundwater for irrigation and household use is causing the Rio Grande to recede underground. In the near future, the flowing river may disappear entirely from the surface of the land. Near Las Cruces, New Mexico, pictures show families with young children wading barefoot across the Rio Grande. Each day, the rivulets contract, leaving a relative trickle in the river as it bends toward, El Paso, Texas.

Split by the U.S. Continental Divide, the Rio Grande Valley and the Colorado Plateau are two separate, yet adjacent watersheds. With their close geographical proximity, the environmental problems experienced in each are different only by degree. Gripped by drought, the Rio Grande Valley is a harbinger of a bleak future for the adjacent Colorado Plateau. As the Anasazi overused their lands and natural resources, so too are we.

A secret oil shale strip mine operates near the southern boundary of Arches National Park - Click for larger image (http://jamesmcgillis.com)In less than one year, the first tar-sands extraction-solvents will enter the Colorado River watershed at a Book Cliffs mine near Moab. Uintah County and the State of Utah are eager to facilitate planned destruction within the Book Cliffs landscape. As proof, Uintah County is using public money to pave the aptly named “Seep Ridge Road” from Interstate I-70, all the way to the strip mine. Every drop of tar sands oil-sludge coming from that mine will move by truck or rail to refineries elsewhere in the country. Requiring huge inputs of energy at the mine, plus shipping and refining costs well above that of traditional oil extraction, the strip mining of tar sands in the Utah desert is a game of diminishing returns. In the alchemy of turning solid rock into oil, we consume so much energy that only an unwitting or cynical investor would see value in light of such widespread environmental destruction. Just because we can turn rock into oil does not mean that we should.

Recent state and federal approvals for mineral extraction in the Moab area include a new hydraulic (in-situ) potash mine in Dry Valley near Canyonlands National Park. Its industrial facilities may soon be visible from the now pristine Anticline Overlook. Elsewhere, near Moab, oil and gas leases spring to life in unexpected and environmentally sensitive locations, such as Dead Horse Point. If the land is not within a designated national or state park, almost every acre is fair game for mining.

Machinery claws the land at an unsigned and unidentified oil shale strip mine north of Moab, Utah. Who owns this equipment? - Click for larger image (http://jamesmcgillis.com)During my May 2013 visit to Moab, I found what appeared to be a clandestine oil-shale strip mine. Hidden by a butte from the Valley City Road, only a wrong turn on a new, unmarked dirt road took me to that place. Located near the southern rim of the Salt Valley, the mine and its access road do not appear on any map. As the crow flies, the mine exists only a few miles from the southern boundary of Arches National Park. Nowhere could I find a corporate name, road sign or scrap of paper indicating who was digging into the previously untouched land.

It is with boundless energy and enthusiasm that mining, petrochemical and Bureau of Land Management (BLM) interests have rammed mining and drilling applications through a broken process. Despite the efforts of environmental groups to publicize this slow-motion rape of Southeastern Utah, new plans continue for a water-lift and hydroelectric plant on the Colorado River near Moab. Although rarely making more than regional news, a Nuclear Power Plant
at Green River, Utah will soon break ground. Not since the Uranium Boom of In May 2011, flood waters lapped at the bottom of the Moab UMTRA Superfund site, destroying a new riverside bicycle path - Click for larger image (http://jamesmcgillis.com)the 1950s has Emery, Grand or Uintah County seen such levels of unchecked mineral exploration and exploitation.

As the result of unchecked extraction and processing in the 1950s, the Moab UMTRA Superfund site still faces decades of publicly financed cleanup. Yet today, we set in motion myriad water wasting or aquifer destroying projects in the desert. Any single mineral extraction or power-producing project may look good to investors or consumers. However, when taken as a whole, the Colorado Plateau and its namesake river may soon follow the Rio Grande River to a point of no return.

In matters of drought and depopulation, we must concede that the Pre-Puebloan (Ancients) were the real experts. In the High Southwest, if we stop and listen, the Spirit of the Ancients is all around us. In the end, through overuse of natural resources, the Ancients helped change their
On May 25, 2011, the Colorado River puts its high water mark on the new highway bridge at Moab, Utah - Click for larger image (http://jamesmcgillis.com)weather cycle toward hotter and dryer. Today, drill rigs, gas compression sites and diesel equipment of every variety pollute both water and air, drowning out the Ancients’ warning cries.

Over a two-day period during my July 2013 visit to Moab, the monsoon unleashed torrents of rain. Water visibly eroded the ground at the Moab Rim Campark, where I stayed. Still, when compared to the deep snowfields that once lingered into summer in the high country; these thunderstorms produced a mere drop in the bucket. Wondering how the Moab Pile might have fared under such a sudden deluge, I went to see for myself. Although the UMTRA Moab site is now six million tons lighter and smaller than it was five years ago, erosion channels marked its sides. Was that runoff of toxic and nuclear waste contained in catch basins or did it run directly into the Colorado River?

The Ancient Spirit of Moab, located on the Moab Rim, downwind of the Moab Pile squints from the clouds of nuclear-contaminated dust and sand that have blow in his face since the 1950s - Click for larger image (http://jamesmcgillis.com)While looking across the Moab Pile toward the Moab Rim, I saw a huge face in the rocky crust of the canyon wall. After a few moments, I realized that successful removal of six million tons of contaminated soil allowed me to see the Ancient Spirit of Moab from that spot. Locked in stone for half of eternity, he seemed to say, “Remember those who lived here long before. Learn to respect the land and its resources. If you do not, you too shall experience a devastated landscape, unfit for human habitation”.

 


By James McGillis at 04:55 PM | Environment | Comments (0) | Link

Friday, November 22, 2019

Ancient and Original Twin Towers Stand at Hovenweep National Monument, Utah - 2008


Ancient and original Twin Towers stand at Little Ruin Canyon, Hovenweep National Monument, Utah - Click for larger image (http://jamesmcgillis.com)

Ancient and Original Twin Towers Stand at Hovenweep National Monument, Utah

In May 2008, I traveled the 121 miles from Moab to Hovenweep National Monument. After my two and one half hour trip, I arrived at Hovenweep National Monument, in Southeastern Utah.  On my afternoon journey from Aztec, New Mexico, it had rained intermittently and clouds now hid the setting sun.
 
With the visitor center already closed, I proceeded to the small but orderly campground about a quarter mile away.  Since that Friday marked the start of Memorial Day Weekend, I hoped that there would be at least one RV-sized campsite available.  To my surprise, there were two, including one that had no neighboring site and featured an unbroken view to the southeast. 
 
Ancient and original Twin Towers standing in morning sunlight, Hovenweep National Monument, Utah - Click for larger image (http://jamesmcgillis.com)After some four-wheel-drive action in the mud, I was able to situate my nineteen-foot Pioneer travel trailer to take advantage of that spectacular view.  As if on cue from an unseen source, the cold rains came in earnest just as I finished my chores.  Cozy and contented, I settled in and listened to the rain as it refreshed the healthy Pinion Pine and Juniper forest around me.
 
In the morning, I walked to the visitor center, paid my user fees and returned to my campsite.  From there, I began my 1.5-mile hike into and around Little Ruin Canyon.  Before I departed, I observed the fresh rainwater in the nearby slickrock potholes and the red bloom of a nearby cactus.Cactus flower, Hovenweep National Monument, Utah (http://jamesmcgillis.com)
 
Since almost all Hovenweep visitors start at the visitor center and walk counterclockwise around the canyon, I started out in the opposite direction, hoping for some quiet time before the weekend tourists crowded these spectacular ruins.  Apparently having done something inexplicably right in a former life, I received my reward – I neither saw nor heard another living soul for the first half of my hike.
 
Close-up of ancient Twin Towers, Little Ruin Canyon, Hovenweep National Monument, Utah - Click for larger image (http://jamesmcgillis.com)Ancestral Puebloan Indians built the characteristic tower ruins of Hovenweep in the period just before their final and complete withdrawal or disappearance from the Colorado Plateau and the Four Corners Region.  The zenith of their construction here was between 1230 and 1275 CE.  At that time, an elder of their tribe could have witnessed or participated in the planning and building of all the ruins visible in Little Ruin Canyon.  Uniquely, these ruins include circular, square and D-shaped freestanding towers, all within shouting (and in some cases), whispering distance of each other.
 
The author, James McGillis, with Hovenweep Castle in background - Click for larger image (http://jamesmcgillis.com)Conventional wisdom, supported by relevant archeological facts indicates that Hovenweep, along with Mesa Verde in Colorado were among the final redoubts of this far-reaching culture.  Supposedly, chaos reined, as drought, overpopulation, deforestation and internecine warfare gripped their culture.  To me, that sounds like hogwash.  If the culture was in collapse and marauders roamed the land, how did the residents of Hovenweep have time to shape and radius stones for the exterior of their unique freestanding “Round Tower” and flat-faced stones for their unique freestanding “Square Tower”? 
 
My belief, supported only by my observations and the feel of the place is that Hovenweep represented the ancestral Puebloan’s high point of both architecture and civilization.  These towers stood out as their rock-solid achievements and their gift to those of us who come to visit this place over seven hundred years later. 
 
At the peak of Pharaonic Egypt, the high priests and elite of their cultureAncient ruins of Hovenweep Castle, Little Ruin Canyon, Hovenweep National Monument, Utah Click for larger image (http://jamesmcgillis.com) endeavored to reach immortality, exemplified by their process of mummification, but also through their funerary architecture, masks and vessels.  After personally viewing several Egyptian museum road shows in my current lifetime, I would say that they “made it” to eternal life, or at least thus far.
 
I believe that the ancestral Puebloan of Hovenweep, who built a pantheon of sturdy, yet highly aesthetic granaries, ceremonial kivas and everyday houses, had something similar in mind.  Not having technology beyond what we call “stone age”, the ancestral Puebloan focused much of their energy on creating architecture that would outlive them and send those of us who follow a clear message.
 
The naturally occurring "Spirit" of Little Ruin Canyon, Hovenweep National Monument, Utah - Click for larger image (http://jamesmcgillis.com)The message that they left for us was, “Judge us not by anything other than by what you see here.  Walk with us past our gardens; enjoy with us the solid nature of our former existence.  Then ask yourselves, did we abandon this place and travel south in search of water and peace?  Or did we simply do all that we could do in our many lifetimes here, then withdraw to be with Spirit, to rest, relax and plan our return, long after you, the current visitor are gone from this place?  If you stand quietly and stare at what your culture calls ruins, you may indeed see one or more of our spirits still inhabiting the temples in this canyon.”


By James McGillis at 06:52 PM | Travel | Comments (0) | Link

Not an Aztec to be Found in Aztec, New Mexico - 2008


Ancient doorway at the ruins, Aztec, New Mexico - Click for larger image (http://jamesmcgillis.com)

Not an Aztec to be Found in Aztec, New Mexico

On Thursday, May 22, 2008, I departed Chaco Cultural Historical Park and headed northeast, towards the nearest paved road outside the park.  Last fall, when I traveled the same dirt road, I was careless about the “washboard” effect that the passage of many vehicles had created along the road.  During that trip, I lost a full-length mirror from an inside door of my coach and almost shot the microwave oven out to it secured place in an upper cabinet.  This year I slowed to a walking pace whenever I hit a rough patch, of which there were many.
 
The Ruins at Aztec, New Mexico - Click for larger image (http://jamesmcgillis.com)Once I hit dry pavement, I proceeded to north on US-550, which is wide, fast and almost like a freeway.  My next destination was Aztec, New Mexico and Aztec Ruins National Monument, located by the Animas River, just upstream from its confluence with the San Juan River, which drains to Lake Powell, along the Colorado River, further downstream.  The La Plata River and then the Chaco River are also nearby contributors to the San Juan River, demonstrating the complexity of the landforms and natural drainage of the Colorado Plateau, nearby.
 
A Corner Window in an old ruined building, Aztec Ruins, New Mexico - Click for larger image (http://jamesmcgillis.com)Early Anglo visitors to the area assumed that indigenous people could not have created structures and culture as extensive or advanced as that which they found in northwestern New Mexico and southwestern Colorado.  In order to create a match with their preconceived notions, they ascribed the elaborate complex of ruined buildings there to the Aztecs of old Mexico.  Likewise, they gave credit to the Spanish conquistador Hernando Cortes by naming the serene town of Cortez, Colorado after him.  Cortez did lead an expedition up through Baja California, but never set foot in either New Mexico or Colorado.
 
As I arrived at the Aztec Ruins, the rainy weather that had followed me all the way from Chaco Canyon, 65 miles to the south again threatened my tour of the ruins.  Luckily, the rain held off just long enough for me to make my personal inspection of these well-preserved structures, some of which retain their original roof structures, even after 800 years of abandonment.  
 
The reconstructed Great Kiva at Aztec, NM - This is an example of Pre-Puebloan Indian, not Aztec Indian architecture Click for larger image (http://jamesmcgillis.com)Surely, we should celebrate the pre-Puebloan Indian engineers and architects for such great achievements as the masonry corner-window the great kiva, shown here reconstructed nearly as it stood in 1200 CE.  Such was Anglo culture in the second half of the nineteenth century that most considered Indians, contemporary or ancient as a backward and unenlightened.
 
What we now call the Aztec Ruins were constructed beginning around 1100 CE, which was around the time that Chaco Canyon began its decline.  Not ironically, Aztec lies almost due north of Chaco, one to two weeks away by foot travel.  Another interesting fact is that Aztec Ruins have many similarities in size, layout and apparent function to the crown jewel of Chaco Canyon, the Pueblo Bonito Ruin.  One of the mysteries of the Four Corners Chimney Rock, in Southeastern Colorado and a landform near Aztec, New Mexico - Click for larger image (http://jamesmcgillis.com)region is why the more southerly ancestral Puebloan Chaco culture declined, even as the new development at Aztec expanded on its concepts and thrived.
 
As I prepared to depart for Durango, Colorado, the young woman at the front desk at Aztec Ruins told me that it had snowed in Durango and that the highway department had closed the highway between Durango and Silverton, Colorado.  Consulting my maps, I decided that I would avoid the high country altogether and head for the remote Hovenweep National Looking North and East, Ship Rock, New Mexico, from a distance - Click for larger image (http://jamesmcgillis.com)Monument, just north of the little town of Aneth, in southeastern Utah.  With luck and good weather, I could make it to Hovenweep before nightfall.
 
Traveling north on Highway 491 (formerly the devilish Highway 666), I turned southwest at its intersection with Highway 160, a location dominated by another of the southwest's "Chimney Rock" locations, this one towering to an elevation of 5761 feet.  At the turnoff is the most picturesque former gas station in the entire Four Corners region.  Abandoned gas station creates a lonely sight in Southwestern Colorado, near the Four Corners and east of Monument Valley, Utah - Click for larger image (http://jamesmcgillis.com)With its long overhang and stark horizontal lines, this architectural relic gives a lonely and serene look to the grand geographical features that abound, including a long view back to Ship Rock and its thorny peaks, to the east.
 
Next stop,  Hovenweep National Monument, Utah.

By James McGillis at 05:58 PM | Travel | Comments (0) | Link