A 1965 Visit With My Father to
Old Arches National Monument, Moab, Utah
“Wilderness – we scarcely know what we mean by the
term, though the sound of it draws all whose nerves and emotions have
not yet been irreparably stunned, deadened, numbed by the caterwauling
of commerce, the sweating scramble for profit and domination. Why such
allure in the very word?” – Edward Abbey, Desert Solitaire
During two seasons in the late 1950s, Edward Abbey took up residence in a
trailer at the old Arches National Monument. Over fifty-five years
later, exactly where Edward Abbey's trailer
stood is a subject of controversy. As the least likely government
employee ever, Abbey was the park ranger who kept things clean and neat
out at the end of the road. There, near Devil’s Garden, Abbey observed
the timelessness landforms and a rapidly changing political landscape.
The only hint of his future status as a proto-anarcho-communist environmentalist came in this passage from his 1968 book, Desert Solitaire.
Page
59, “For about five miles I followed the course of their survey back
toward headquarters, and as I went I pulled up each little wooden stake
and threw it away, and cut all the bright ribbons from the bushes and
hid them under a rock. A futile effort, in the long run, but it made me
feel good.”
In 1965, my father, Dr. Loron N. (Duke) McGillis and I visited many of the places that Abbey was to make famous in Desert Solitaire or in his most famous fiction work, The Monkey Wrench Gang.
In Desert Solitaire, Abbey wrote with wry humor about tourists abusing
even the sacred walls of a national monument. The somewhat sickening,
yet heart-pounding acts of eco-sabotage came later, in The Monkey
Wrench Gang and its various sequels. This article, largely in Abbey’s
own words focuses on the kinder, gentler author we first met on the
pages of Desert Solitaire.
Landscape Arch – In 1965, my father and I hiked the unimproved trail to Landscape Arch. Although far more delicate than the arch named Delicate Arch,
we found no fence or other barriers to climbing up the hill and under
that gracefully suspended stone slab. Stopping short of the arch
itself, our instincts were good. One afternoon, twenty-six years later,
picnickers sitting beneath the arch barely scrambled away from a mighty rock fall there.
Near that spot, my father positioned his Nikon camera to show both
Landscape Arch and the smaller Partition Arch above and to its right,
near the rim. As I reviewed old Kodak Ektachrome slides of our time
there, I was not sure if the second arch was real, or just a flaw in
the 35-MM film. After pouring over fifteen pages of Google images, I
found only two photographs that included Partition Arch in the same
shot. I wonder where that photo spot is. It would be nice if Arches
National Park could provide a protected path to the spot where those
rare photos originated.
Page
37, “I reach the end of the road and walk the deserted trail to
Landscape Arch and Double-O Arch, picking up a few candy wrappers left
from the weekend, straightening a trail sign which somebody had tried
to remove, noting another girdled and bleeding pinion pine,
obliterating from a sandstone wall the pathetic scratchings of some
imbeciles who had attempted to write their names across the face of the Mesozoic.”
Page 267, “In the government truck I make a final tour of the park, into
the Devil’s Garden where I walk for the last time this year out the
trail past Tunnel Arch, Pine Tree Arch and Landscape Arch, all the way
out to Double-O Arch at the end of the path.”
Book Cliffs – Thirty-five miles north of Moab, Utah stand the majestic Book Cliffs. From Green River to the west, past Crescent Junction in the middle and on to Thompson Springs to the east, they parallel both the Union Pacific Railroad mainline and Interstate I-70. Stark in their appearance, the Book Cliffs angle of repose
is too steep and the terrain too dry to support more than sparse
vegetation. In broad daylight, as our 1965 image shows, the Cretaceous
sandstone capping the cliffs stand tall and unbroken, like the skyline
of a major city. In Desert Solitaire, Edward Abbey often mentions the
Book Cliffs.
Page 4, “On the north and northwest I see the Roan Cliffs and the Book Cliffs, the two-level face of the Uintah Plateau.”
Page
23, “I refer to the garden which lies all around me, extending from
here to the mountains, from here to the Book Cliffs, from here to
Robbers’ Roost and Land’s End, an area about the size of the Negev.”
Page 118, “Mornings begin clear and dazzling bright, the sky as blue as
the Virgin’s cloak, unflawed by a trace of cloud in all of that
emptiness bounded on the North by the Book Cliffs.”
Page 269, “For a few minutes the whole region from the canyon of the
Colorado to the Book Cliffs – crag, mesa, turret, dome, canyon wall,
plain swale and dune – glows with a vivid amber light against the
darkness on the east.”
Dead Horse Point – If you have seen the Movie Cars,
you know Dead Horse Point. After visiting Moab while on vacation,
Pixar director John Lasseter copied whole scenes from that place and
etched them into the minds of millions. What those movie viewers may not
realize is that Lasseter got it right. The view from Dead Horse Point
to the Shafer Trail and beyond to the Colorado River looks impossible
in its depth, yet you can recognize it in the movie.
In 1965, the landscape did look different than it does today. Below, in a place called Potash,
the Texas Gulf Sulphur Company was only two years into conventional
mining of Potash salts. With its processing facility hidden upstream,
the Paradox Basin anticline still looked pristine. Readers will also note
that my father had a penchant for tempting fate, standing within only a
few feet of the precipice. A few times on our trip, he convinced me to
do the same. Today, I would chalk that up to youthful exuberance.
Not until 1970, five years after our visit, did the now famous blue settling ponds
appear on bench land above the Colorado River. From then on, solution
mining, or hydraulic fracking of the anticline salt beds continued in
earnest. In Desert Solitaire, Abbey focuses on several aspects of Dead
Horse Mesa, but not the potash mine or its future risk to the
environment.
Page 11, “…of Dead Horse Mesa, a flat-topped uninhabited island in the
sky which extends for thirty miles north and south between the
convergent canyons of the Green and Colorado rivers. Public domain. Above the mesa the sun hangs behind streaks and streamers of wind-whipped clouds.”
Page
66, “Finally he was discovered ten days after the search began near an
abandoned miner’s shack below Dead Horse Point. They found him sitting
on the ground hammering feebly at an ancient can of beans, trying to open the can with a stone.”
Page 209, “…for the diversion, I throw canteens and rucksack into the
government pickup and take off. I go west to the highway, south for
three miles, and turn off on another dirt road leading southwest across Dead Horse Mesa toward the rendezvous.
Page 219, “Getting late; the sun is down beyond Back-of-the-Rocks, beyond the escarpment of Dead Horse Point. A soft pink mist of light, the alpenglow, lies on the (La Sal) mountains above timberline. I hurry on, south of Moab, off the highway on the gravel…”
Page 223, “There is no trail and many dead and fallen trees make
progress difficult… Dead Horse Point and Grandview Point, and farther
away, farthest of all, wonderfully remote, the Orange Cliffs, Lands’
End and the Maze, an exhilarating vastness…”
Page 265, “Enough of Land’s End, Dead Horse Point, Tukuhnikivats,
and the other high resolves; I want to see somebody jump out of a
window or off a roof. I grow weary of nobody’s company but my own – let
me hear the wit and wisdom of the subway…”
While on our 1965 Grand Tour of the Four Corners states, my father and I had many adventures. As a teenager from California,
I did not expect ever to see such exotic desert and mountain
landscapes again. Not until 2006, over thirty years later did I again
visit Moab, Arches, Canyonlands and Dead Horse Point. Although the political and demographic landscape had changed, the timeless beauty of Edward Abbey’s realm had not.
In Part 2 of my 1965 saga, my father, Duke
McGillis and I visit Lake Powell and Rainbow Bridge. To read that next
chapter, please click HERE.
By James McGillis at 01:25 PM | | Comments (0) | Link